Sartorial Splendor: The Evolution of the Shirt

I was looking at an article about the well-dressed man, proper shirt-wearing and shirt accessories, and interestingly enough, the shirt, originally was quite different, rather blousy, and details like cuffs were nothing more than slits that could be closed with string. But, by the 1700’s, men said enough was enough, and the cuff was given a facelift, with boutons de manchette, or “sleeve buttons” as they were called, to close the gap at the wrist.  Typically they were identical pairs of colored glass buttons, but soon, as is always the way, style gives way to the fabulous, and jewels were soon included, diamonds, ornate worked gold, silver, painted scenes, etc. Suddenly, a new industry was born, with cufflinks lending an aire of personality, individuality to the wearer.

In 1788, the first known evidence of the word “cufflink” appeared. Cufflinks are designed only for use with shirts which have buttonholes but no buttons. These may be either single or double-length fold-over or “French” cuffs. Though most men generally wear the dress shirt with its own buttons, the bon vivant truly enjoys the cuff-linked shirt. There is truly nothing like it, crisp, starched, pristine white.

The cravat, neck tie or neck band, originated in 17th Century Croatia, the band applied to any long-strip neckcloth, not a ruff (the starched pleated white linen). A band could be a plain, attached shirt collar, or a detachable band that draped over the collar. It is thought the band hid evidence of a soiled collar.

The cravat is of military origin, part of the Croatian military kit ranging from coarse cloth for enlisted soliders to fine linen or silk for officers. The word CRAVAT comes from the French word CRAVATE, pronounced CROATE, a corruption of the word for Croatia.  By the way, Croatia celebrates Cravat Day on October 18.

As time passed, the cravat was replaced with the “steinkirk”, virtually a long piece of fabric tied with a bow knot, named for the soldiers present at the Battle of Steenkerque. It was tucked into a jacket or waistcoat buttonhole. It was popular until the 1720’s. By 1715, another kind of neckwear, the "stocks"  made its appearance. It refers referred to a leather collar, laced at the back, worn by soldiers to for holding the head high in a military bearing. It also provided protection to the major blood vessels of the neck from being wounded!



 And so, the well-dressed man, just as the chic woman, must put up with a certain degree of “suffering for style”. But, ahhh! The results. Check out Taylor Lautner below, as the elegant gentleman, and as a rather scruffy kid. Which do you prefer?

Frankly, I prefer the sartorial splendor of a James Bond, or at least a gentleman of the realm!